Riung & the 17 Islands
Riung is the kind of place that exists in the gap between the guidebooks. It’s not unknown — it’s in every Flores itinerary that covers the full island — but it has somehow maintained the quality of a real discovery.
The 17 Islands Marine Park sits on Flores’ north coast, in a bay where 21 small islands rise from shallow turquoise water. The reefs are healthy, the flying foxes are spectacular at dusk, and on most days in the shoulder season you’ll share the water with exactly no one.
The Islands and Reefs
Boat charters from Riung’s small pier take you between islands for IDR 350,000–500,000 per day. A good half-day circuit covers:
Pulau Ontoloe — the largest island, home to the flying fox colony. During the day, bats hang sleeping in the trees. At dusk they depart in a dense stream that takes 20–30 minutes to fully empty the roost.
Pulau Tiga and Pulau Pau — small uninhabited islands with white-sand beaches and shallow snorkel reefs. The coral gardens around these islands have good coverage and are excellent for beginners — calm, shallow (2–8 m), no significant current.
Pulau Besar — the largest island closest to the marine park entrance, with a beach and basic shelter.
The snorkeling quality depends on which reefs your boat driver knows. Tell them you want the best coral — a good local driver will take you to spots tourists rarely visit. The outer reefs (further from Riung town) are less affected by anchor damage and generally better.
The Flying Fox Sunset
Pteropus vampyrus — the large flying fox — is one of the world’s largest bats, with a wingspan up to 1.5 m and distinctly dog-like face. The Ontoloe Island colony numbers in the thousands.
From about 4:30 PM, the bats become increasingly restless in the trees. As the sun drops, they begin launching one by one, then in groups, then in continuous streams — filling the sky above the island with a dense, wheeling cloud of wings. The departure takes 20–30 minutes.
The spectacle is best from the water near the western shore of Ontoloe. Time your boat positioning with your driver.
Getting There
The road from Bajawa crosses the mountains and descends to the coast at Riung — about 2 hours on a good day. The last 30 km of road passes through dramatic landscape: Inerie’s flanks, dry forest, and then suddenly the blue of the north coast visible below.
If coming from Ende (for those following the Trans-Flores Highway east-to-west), Riung is 3 hours northwest — a possible detour before reaching Bajawa, or an add-on from Ende if you have an extra day.
Frequently asked questions
What is the 17 Islands Marine Park at Riung?
The 17 Islands Marine Park is a protected marine area on the north coast of Flores, near the small town of Riung. Despite the name, the park contains 21 small islands. The park protects excellent coral reefs, clear turquoise waters, and a large colony of giant flying foxes (fruit bats) that roost on Ontoloe Island. It receives a tiny fraction of Komodo's visitors and is one of north Flores' best-kept secrets.
How do I get to Riung?
Riung is 80 km north of Bajawa on a paved road that crosses the mountains to the north coast — approximately 2 hours by hired car or ojek. Public transport (buses/minivans) runs from Bajawa's terminal to Riung in the mornings but is infrequent. Most visitors hire a car from Bajawa for a day or overnight trip. From Ende, Riung is approximately 3 hours northwest.
What is there to see in the 17 Islands?
The main draws: snorkeling over coral gardens around the smaller islands (excellent hard and soft coral, reef fish, turtles), the flying fox colony on Ontoloe Island (best at dusk when thousands depart to feed), white-sand beaches on uninhabited islands, and the general feeling of having a marine park to yourself. There are no dive operators in Riung — it's purely a snorkeling destination from shore or boat.
Are the flying foxes worth seeing?
Yes — the Ontoloe Island flying fox colony is one of the largest in Flores. Giant fruit bats (Pteropus vampyrus) with wingspans of up to 1.5 metres roost in the trees by day and depart in enormous streams at dusk to feed on fruit trees across the mainland and islands. The sunset departure of thousands of bats is a striking spectacle. Ask your boat driver to position you near Ontoloe at around 5 PM.
Is the snorkeling better at Riung or Komodo?
Komodo's best sites are objectively superior for marine life diversity and large pelagics. But Riung is genuinely excellent for reef snorkeling — shallow coral gardens in clear water with abundant reef fish, and you may be the only boat there. For travelers who've already done Komodo or who want a quiet marine experience without the Komodo crowds and fees, Riung is outstanding.
Where do I stay in Riung?
Riung is a very small town with basic guesthouses. Shadow of Flores Bungalows and Riung Homestay are consistently mentioned. Rooms start at IDR 150,000–200,000/night. The town is quiet — a few warungs for meals, minimal nightlife. Most visitors come as a day trip from Bajawa, but an overnight stay lets you see the morning market and the flying fox sunset without rushing.